Balance.

I haven't written much as I've been trying to gather my thoughts from the last two weeks without just spouting off meaningless drivel on this blog. When I've been meeting people in the last few weeks, everyone's first question is, "So..How do you like Nairobi?" Which seems like a loaded question, and it's asked with a slightly raised eyebrow to see what angle you are going to take. My first response is not positive or negative, I kind of smile and shrug and say, "Well...I'm figuring it out..." which is followed by understanding laughter.

The thing is, Nairobi is a city of controversy. On one hand, it's extremely 'modern' and 'progressive'; if we are talking about there are fancy malls and restaurants and that going out costs the same as it does in Vancouver. On the other, it's roads are atrocious, the transportation system is extremely lacking quality (and safety) and reliability, and many other things. It is the single biggest conversation topic among expats and locals alike. It overshadows the enjoyment of actually leaving your apartment, it's that stressful. So, most expats I have met- take taxis- constantly. The problem with this for me is that my stipend won't exactly allow for the luxury of taxis as costs for fuel here compare to what they are at home.

My days and nights are so extremely opposite that it is, like day and night. In the morning I fight people and traffic into a passing Matatu (mini bus) heading into town- which takes around 45 minutes (it would take ten if there were no traffic), then I fight through crowds of people to get to where I jump on another Matatu that heads into Mukuru slum-South B- near the industrial park (if you are google earth-ing me). This takes another half hour, if I'm lucky. I arrive at work already sweaty and dirty- good thing I'm working in the slum! I actually love MABWOK (www.mabwok.org) the staff, the students, the youth, the kids, everyone is wonderful. Though I'm still not totally sure what my job will end up looking like in the end, for now I'm trying to be content just enjoying learning and observing.

My evenings, when I arrive home into my lovely apartment, contain me having a shower, cleaning my nose from black soot, and getting into jeans and a sweater (yes, it's cool here...not hot) and say going out in a taxi to fancy Westgate mall to the Artcaffe, eating a dinner and having a drink in a place where people don't seem to know what is an hour away. I am as guilty as anyone- but where is the balance? I know I'm not expected to live in the slum, or like I am, but I also never feel comfortable spending $25 on a meal here. (Luckily beer stays at around $2 for a giant bottle, even in nice places).

The gap between the Rich and the Poor is extreme. There is no middle ground (or very little). This, in my mind, just seems to feed the animosity between the classes, and thus reinforces the fear of being robbed or cheated. The Rich here, are very Rich. They aren't just Rich because they are in Kenya, they would be considered Rich in Canada or Europe as well. It is not the racial classes that separate- it is simply wealth. There are extremely wealthy Kenyans, Indians and Asians here-as well as some rich white folk- and then there are poor NGO workers like me...and then the other extreme in the slums. In Uganda it wasn't as noticeable.

How does one navigate this city? I'm still not sure. I'm not sure what I think of it yet. I have met some lovely people, and had some great conversations and coffees and drinks out, and it will continue to get better and I will find my place, and my niche here. It just may take longer than I was expecting.